Mirepoix

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Every derivative sauce, all recipes, all technique lessons — offline.

Béchamel

White roux and milk, infused with onion and bay. The gentlest of the five and the one everything creamy is built on.

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Velouté

A blond roux loosened with clear stock and simmered until it is glossy. Tastes of whatever stock you made it with, which is the whole point.

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Espagnole

Brown roux, brown stock, and two hours of patient skimming. The deepest of the five and the parent of every red-wine and mushroom sauce.

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Tomato Sauce

The only mother sauce whose thickening comes mostly from the vegetable itself. Pork fat, a little flour and long slow cooking do the rest.

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Hollandaise

Yolks, butter and acid held together by heat and nerve. The one mother sauce with no flour in it, and the one that can break in front of you.

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Béarnaise

Hollandaise with the vinegar reduction rebuilt around tarragon and shallot. The sauce for grilled beef, and the reason anyone learns emulsions.

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Choron

Béarnaise with tomato folded in. Pink, slightly sweeter, and it holds better on a plate that is going to sit.

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Maltaise

Hollandaise finished with blood orange juice and zest. Made for asparagus and almost nothing else.

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Mousseline

Hollandaise lightened with whipped cream just before serving. Twice the volume, half the weight, and it will not wait.

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Mornay

Béchamel with Gruyère and a yolk. The gratin sauce — it browns where other sauces only dry out.

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Soubise

Béchamel carrying a large quantity of onion cooked white. Sweet without sugar, and it makes plain meat taste seasoned.

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Mustard sauce

Béchamel finished off the heat with Dijon. Boil it and the mustard turns bitter, which is why so many versions taste wrong.

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Suprême

Chicken velouté reduced with cream until it is ivory and heavy. The most useful sauce in the book for anyone cooking poultry.

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Allemande

Velouté thickened a second time with yolks and cream. A liaison, not a reduction — and it can never be boiled again.

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Aurore

Velouté tinted with reduced tomato until it is the colour of dawn, which is where the name comes from.

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Bercy

Fish velouté built on a shallot and white-wine reduction, finished with cold butter. The classic sauce for anything poached in its own stock.

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Bordelaise

Red wine and shallot reduced to almost nothing, then let down with Espagnole. Traditionally finished with poached marrow.

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Chasseur

Mushrooms and shallot in butter, white wine, tomato and Espagnole. The hunter's sauce: fast, and built in the pan the meat came out of.

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Madère

Demi-glace finished with Madeira added off the heat. Boil the Madeira and you boil away the only reason it is there.

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Robert

Onion, white wine, Espagnole and mustard stirred in at the end. One of the oldest named sauces in the French repertoire.

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Piquante

Robert's sharper cousin: vinegar in place of some of the wine, and cornichons chopped in at the end.

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Provençale

Tomato sauce with garlic, olive oil and parsley added late so the garlic stays green rather than sweet.

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Portugaise

Tomato sauce with onion cooked soft in oil and a great deal more tomato flesh. Thicker, sweeter, and it holds a stuffing.

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Noisette

Hollandaise built on browned butter. One change to the fat and the sauce tastes of hazelnut — which is what its name says.

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Cream sauce

Béchamel let down with cream and reduced back. The simplest derivative and the one most often made badly, because people add the cream and stop there.

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Poulette

Allemande with mushroom cooking liquor and parsley. The sauce for anything poached that needs to taste of more than the stock it sat in.

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Normande

Fish velouté enriched with mushroom liquor, cream and yolks. The classic sauce for sole, and the reason fish trimmings are worth keeping.

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Ravigote

Velouté sharpened with a white-wine and vinegar reduction, shallot and herbs. Sharp where most velouté derivatives are soft.

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Diable

Espagnole over a fierce reduction of white wine, shallot and cracked pepper. Named for the heat, which comes from pepper and not from chilli.

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Lyonnaise

Espagnole over onions cooked slowly to gold and sharpened with vinegar. Whether the onion is strained out or left in is the only real argument about it.

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Charcutière

Robert with julienned gherkins added at the end. One ingredient separates the two sauces, and it goes in off the heat.

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Italienne

Espagnole with a duxelles of mushroom and cured pork. The sauce that turns leftover mushroom stalks into something worth serving.

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Créole

Tomato sauce with onion, pepper and a long pull of heat. The vegetables stay in pieces here — straining it would take away the point.

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Milanaise

Tomato sauce with mushroom and cured pork, cut fine. Built for pasta and for anything crumbed and fried.

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White wine sauce

Fish velouté finished with a wine reduction and butter. The sauce most restaurant fish dishes actually sit on, whatever the menu calls it.

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Onion soup gratinée

Forty minutes of onions and nothing else. The colour is the recipe — rush it and you get onion water.

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Mushroom velouté

A velouté in soup form. The mushrooms are fried hard first, which is the only way to get mushroom flavour rather than mushroom texture.

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Crème caramel

Custard baked in a water bath over its own caramel. The only two things that can go wrong are a burnt caramel and an oven that is too hot.

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Crème anglaise

The sauce every dessert leans on, and the one that turns to sweet scrambled egg at 85 °C. Learn it once and half the pastry book opens.

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Tarte Tatin

Apples caramelised in the pan, pastry laid on top, and the whole thing turned over at the end. The apples must be firm or you get sauce under a lid.

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Chocolate mousse

Chocolate, eggs, and nothing to hide behind. Three temperatures have to meet, which is the whole difficulty and the whole lesson.

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Blanquette de veau

Veal poached white, its own broth turned into an Allemande, and nothing in the pot allowed to take colour at any point.

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Chicken chasseur

A whole dish built in one pan around the sauce it makes itself. The best argument in the book for learning to deglaze.

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Sole meunière

Flour, butter, lemon, parsley. Four minutes of cooking and a lifetime of getting the butter to exactly the right brown.

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Eggs with hollandaise

Two techniques in one plate: a poached egg that holds its shape and a sauce that holds its emulsion. Both come down to temperature.

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Beef bourguignon

A braise whose sauce is the cooking liquid, reduced. The browning at the start is not a formality — it is where every bit of the colour comes from.

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Gratin dauphinois

Potatoes, cream, garlic. No cheese in the original — the crust comes from the cream and the starch, and cheese is what people add when the potatoes are wrong.

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Steak au poivre

Crushed peppercorns, a hot pan and a sauce made in ninety seconds from what the steak left behind.

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Roux: three colours, three jobs

Equal weights of butter and flour. How long you cook them decides both the flavour and how much they will thicken.

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Why an emulsion breaks

Fat suspended in water, held there by the yolk. Three things break it: too much heat, too much fat at once, too little liquid.

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Nappe: the spoon test

The only consistency measurement in classical cooking that needs no instrument, and the one every sauce recipe assumes you know.

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Deglazing without bitterness

The brown film on the bottom of the pan is the dish's whole flavour — unless it has gone one minute too far, in which case it is ruined and no liquid will save it.

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A clear stock is a skimmed stock

Cloudiness is not a mystery. It is fat and protein that were boiled back into the liquid instead of being lifted off the top.

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Mirepoix: two, one, one

Two parts onion, one carrot, one celery, by weight. The base under most of classical cooking — and the app's own name.

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Monter au beurre: gloss without thickening

Cold butter whisked into a hot sauce off the heat. It is an emulsion, which is why it has to be cold, and why it cannot boil afterwards.

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Reduction concentrates salt too

The most common way to ruin a sauce is to season it before it has finished reducing. Halve the liquid and you double the salt.

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Strain, and press nothing through

What you push through the sieve is exactly what you spent two hours removing from the sauce.

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When more salt is not the answer

A flat sauce is usually short of acid, not short of salt. Four things move a sauce: salt, acid, fat and sweetness — and most people only reach for one.

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Plating is where the sauce goes

Four decisions make a plate look professional, and none of them is decoration: height, empty space, where the sauce sits, and how hot the plate is.

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Bouquet garni and oignon clouté

Two ways of adding flavour you intend to take back out. Both exist so the sauce never has to be strained twice.

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