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Noisette

Hollandaise built on browned butter. One change to the fat and the sauce tastes of hazelnut — which is what its name says.

Time
Servings4
DifficultyHard
EquipmentSmall saucepan, heatproof bowl, whisk
Mother sauceHollandaise

Contains raw egg — not for pregnancy, young children or anyone immunocompromised.

  • 200 g — butter
  • 3 pc — egg yolk
  • 30 ml — water
  • 15 ml — lemon juice
  • 3 g — salt
  1. Melt the butter and keep it on the heat until the milk solids at the bottom turn the colour of a hazelnut shell and the smell changes. Take it off one shade early — it keeps darkening in the pan.
  2. Let it settle, then pour off the clear browned butter and leave the burnt solids behind. Those solids are bitter and they do not emulsify.
  3. Whisk the yolks with the water over steam to the ribbon, then thread in the browned butter at 55–60 °C. Hotter than that and the emulsion splits faster than with plain butter, because there is less water left in it.

Poached white fish, asparagus, veal escalope.

Compared with Hollandaise

Hollandaise

  • Added: butter 200 g
  • Not used: clarified butter, white wine vinegar, cracked black pepper
  • Different amount: lemon juice 15 ml (Hollandaise: 5 ml)
  • Same amount: egg yolk 3 pc, water 30 ml, salt 3 g

Both recipes serve 4.

  • One serving (1 of 4): butter 50 g, water 7.5 ml, lemon juice 3.75 ml, salt 0.75 g
  • Double batch (8 servings): butter 400 g, egg yolk 6 pc, water 60 ml, lemon juice 30 ml, salt 6 g

In the same library

Source · Mirepoix · Auguste Escoffier, Le Guide Culinaire (1907), no. 36

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